In these uncertain times, Craig Young finds comfort in visiting an old standby in downtown LA….
Chinese food has been a longtime British staple and I am often asked where is the best take-away in LA, which led me to research and visit LA’s world renowned Chinatown, a neighborhood steeped in culture and history.
As we continue this period of lockdown/shelter-in-place/twiddling thumbs it’s important to know that there are still things we can do alone or with those in the same household. In past columns I’ve shared some fantastic hikes, some great road trips in California, and great eateries. This week and for the next few weeks I thought it might be good to spotlight some places closer to home.
Chinatown in downtown LA encompasses less than a square mile bordered by Main Street to the east, Yale Street to the west, Cesar Chavez to the south, and Bernard Street to the north.
It’s crucial to understand and appreciate the district’s past to understand its relevance today. In the 1870s, the original Chinatown began in downtown LA between El Pueblo Plaza and Old Arcadia St and expanded east. Throughout the 1930s and ’40s, construction of several landmark buildings and plans for shops, restaurants and apartments created the framework for what became Chinatown. The new Chinatown was planned, owned and operated by Chinese-Americans to acknowledge culture and progress, and Chinatown Central Plaza was built to be the heart of the community. Today, many of the founding families still own the buildings that make up this vibrant, ever-evolving neighborhood.
Though much smaller than the Chinese neighborhoods of New York and San Francisco, great food and numerous small Chinese specialty stores are still abound. We often walk through Chinatown enjoying the architecture of the Cathay Bank, the Chinese Consolidated Benevolent Association (designed by Eugene Kinn Choy) and Thien Hau Temple – a gorgeous Taoist temple dedicated to Mazu, goddess of the sea.
The pedestrianized streets were built in the 1930s and now house a mixture of antique, printing and book stores, as well as galleries. Alex Cheung Company sells jade, antiques and art. Tierra Del Sol Gallery is part of the Tierra Del Sol Foundation, a non-profit that empowers people with developmental disabilities by providing resources to establish careers in the arts. Print Shop LA is set up for screen printing, risograph and textile printing services and classes.
The Chinatown Gateway, also known as the Dragon Gate, is located on Broadway, just north of Cesar Chavez Avenue. Designed by artist Ruppert Mok and installed in 2001, it illuminates at night in bright colors, making it an ideal photo spot at all hours of the day.
To access Chinatown by care, simply drive through the gate or walk north from the Civic Center/ Grand Park metro station. It’s also just a few blocks west of the Union Station metro stop along Cesar Chavez. If you walk through, make sure to turn around and look south through the gate for a perfectly-framed shot of City Hall.
The West Gate, with its neon Chinatown sign, was the first gate built around the Central Plaza. The inscription at the top of the gate reads “Cooperate to Achieve” in Chinese characters. The neon-covered West Gate is even more spectacular when lit up at night, color-coordinated with all of the red lanterns.
Just inside the West Gate is the Wishing Well, one of the oldest landmarks inside of Central Plaza. Designed to emulate the Seven Star Caverns in southern China, you can toss your coins into these waters to wish for love, health, or prosperity.
And of course we can’t visit Chinatown and not talk about the food, we may not be able to dine in or out, but let’s do this the proper way and order a take-away.
There are a slew of non-Chinese food spots popping up in Chinatown and its surrounding areas. However I want to concentrate on authentic Chinese food, otherwise it’s like going to Disneyland and not seeing Mickey Mouse. Amirite?
Okay my first mention isn’t super authentic but it’s by far the most popular:
Yang Chow, 819 N Broadway.(213) 625-0811 www.yangchow.com
Yang Chow has been a staple of Chinatown since the Yun family opened it in the late 1970s. It’s known for two things – Slippery Shrimp, and the long lines of people waiting to eat Slippery Shrimp. The shrimp are deep-fried and covered in a tangy-sweet sauce. It’s not “authentic” at all, but that hasn’t stopped it from becoming one of the most popular Chinese dishes in LA.
That’s not to say there aren’t more traditional dishes at Yang Chow. Their dumplings have fans across the city. I have it on good authority that the staff will try to dissuade you from ordering them because they take more time to cook and they want to turn the tables faster. But trust me- you’re going to want them before your Slippery Shrimp.
Ocean Seafood, 750 N Hill Street. (213) 687-3088. www.oceansf.com
This place is a true institution and is usually crowded with dim-sum lovers on weekends. Ocean Seafood is a purveyor of seafood dumplings and fresh fish culled from tanks in the restaurant. From sugar cane shrimp to deep fried taro root dumplings, Hong Kong-style dim sum is the ultimate dining experience here. Baby bok choy and walnut shrimp are among this comfortable, cavernous restaurant’s specialities.
Chinese Friends Restaurant, 984 N Broadway. (213) 626-1837
This no-frills spot on Broadway serves an extensive menu of classic Chinese-American dishes, such as moo shu pork, beef with broccoli, and orange chicken. Open for nearly 50 years, Chinese Friends has also amassed quite a loyal following online – if you ever need a dose of Something Nice, just check out the reviews on their Yelp page. And it’s hands down my favorite take-away.
Visiting Chinatown is like popping in on an interesting old friend; some of the stuff is just the way you remembered it, and other stuff is new intriguing. So try the restaurants above, or make new favorites of your own…
Be safe, stay distanced and order in!
Craig
